The Home Insulators

Insulation Contractors in Burlington Township, NJ

31.0% of Burlington Township’s 9,407 housing units were built between 1990 and 1999. That is 2,917 homes in one decade, and nothing else comes close: the 1980s account for 5.8% of the stock, the 1970s for 10.8%, the 1960s for 11.9%. The median unit dates from 1987. 62.3% of the township is detached houses and another 13.3% attached — townhouse rows and duplex halves — with 76.2% of occupied homes owner-occupied.

The older township sits underneath all of that. 7.7% of the units predate 1940, 15.4% went up in the 1940s and 50s, 22.7% in the 1960s and 70s, and 45.8% of everything standing was built before New Jersey’s first statewide energy subcode of 1 January 1978. 75.3% of homes heat with gas and 21.5% with electricity; fuel oil is down to 0.8%, one of the lowest shares in Burlington County, so the oil-conversion payback argument that carries our work in the older river towns barely applies here.

One number marks the edge of what we can do. 11.1% of units sit in buildings of twenty or more and 9.5% in buildings of five to nineteen: garden apartments and mid-rise rentals whose envelope belongs to an owner or a management company. Our work is the 5,858 detached houses, the 1,253 attached ones, and the 3.6% in three- and four-unit buildings where an owner can say yes.

The houses we insulate in Burlington Township

The township wraps around Burlington City on the Delaware and runs back to Springfield and Westampton, with Edgewater Park, Florence and Willingboro on its other sides and Bristol Township, Pennsylvania across the water. The old place names — Deacons, Fountain Woods, Springside and Stevens — mark where settlement sat before the subdivisions. There is no Turnpike interchange inside the township line and the River Line stops in Burlington City rather than here, so growth came off U.S. Route 130, Interstate 295 and County Road 541, and it came late.

The 721 units that predate 1940 are their own category. We assume balloon-framed side walls and knob-and-tube wiring until the attic proves otherwise: stud bays running uninterrupted from sill to roof, so a wall cavity is also a chimney. Live cloth-covered wiring comes out before insulation goes in near it, and the first work is the attic floor, the top plates and the chases, not the walls.

The 1940s and 50s put up 15.4% of the township, 994 units in the fifties alone, and that cohort is capes and early ranches. A knee wall is a short stud wall with batts on the room side and nothing on the back, facing a triangular attic open to the eave. The floor joists pass under it, so outside air moves beneath the bedroom floor all winter. The slopes above have no baffle and the flat attic over them is shallow. Blowing more depth into the flat and leaving the knee walls alone is the job we are most often called in to undo.

The 1960s and 70s account for 22.7%: ranches, splits and raised ranches. They came with insulation, which is the trap. The loose-fill has settled below its rated depth, the eaves are wind-washed where soffit vents blow through the edge of the batt, and the bypasses were never sealed — top plates, plumbing stacks, flue chase, attic hatch. Add a bedroom over the garage with open joist bays under the floor and the cold rooms are predictable before we walk in.

Then the big cohort: 36.8% from the 1980s and 90s, plus 17.4% since 2000, split 12.2% in the 2000s and 5.2% in the 2010s. These are two-story colonials and townhouse rows with full code-era walls, so nobody should be selling you blown-in walls on them. What fails is everything else. The air handler and duct trunk sit in the vented attic, outside the insulation, and every leak in that run heats the attic instead of the bedrooms. Tray and cathedral ceilings were framed without baffles. The bonus room over the garage has open bays beneath it. Bath fans terminate in the attic.

Townhouses and the wall you share

1,253 homes here are attached, 13.3% of the stock, most of it from the same 1990s wave. A townhouse looks like a simple job and rarely is. The party wall is often framed to the underside of the roof deck but not sealed there, so attic space runs the length of the row and your heated air leaves through a gap you cannot see from inside. End units lose most, carrying a full exposed gable on top of the shared wall.

The sequence is fixed by that geometry. Close the party wall at the attic plane first, so the row stops sharing air. Seal the top plates, the stack penetrations and the mechanical chase. Seal the garage ceiling and the band joist. Then bring the ceiling insulation to depth. Ownership matters too: a fee-simple townhouse you own outright is a one-unit home and goes through the utility program like any house, while a condominium roof and attic belong to the association. We sort that out on the walk-through, before anyone quotes a price.

We seal before we insulate

Insulation slows heat moving through a surface. It does nothing about air moving through a gap. Pile fourteen inches of cellulose on a 1990s attic floor with an unsealed mechanical chase running through it and you have bought fourteen inches of filter.

In the colonial that dominates this stock the order is: seal the attic hatch and top plates, close the plumbing and flue chases, gasket the recessed cans, run bath fans outside, seal the air handler platform and the duct joints, baffle the cathedral and tray slopes, close the ceiling over the garage, then insulate to depth. In a 1950s cape the priorities invert: block the joist bays under the knee wall at the eave line, air-seal the back of the knee wall, baffle the slopes, then the flat, then the rim joist.

If a quote specifies a depth of insulation and never mentions air sealing, it is half a job.

What insulation costs in Burlington Township

Most of our projects run between $3,500 and $12,500. In a 1990s colonial the number moves with ceiling area, the footage of duct in the attic, the slopes to baffle and whether there is a bonus room over the garage. In a townhouse it moves with the party wall and the garage ceiling more than with square footage. In a cape it is the feet of knee wall and eave to block. A pre-1940 house with knob-and-tube carries an electrical step first. For the foam side, see how much spray foam insulation costs.

Open cell foam runs R-3.9 to R-4.2 per inch. Closed cell runs R-6.9 to R-7.1 per inch and also acts as a vapor retarder, which is why it costs more and why it is right in some assemblies and unnecessary in others. All products are manufactured in the United States and meet applicable building code and safety standards. After air sealing and insulating, homeowners typically save 20% or more on heating and cooling.

Insulation rebates in Burlington Township

Burlington Township is PSE&G territory for both electric and gas, which keeps this simple: one utility bills you for both, and one program covers the work.

PSE&G Whole Home Energy Solutions offers up to $7,500 in rebates toward air sealing, insulation and the envelope work an assessment calls for, plus 0% on-bill repayment of up to $25,000 — 7 years for projects of $10,000 or less, 10 years above that or for income-qualified customers. It is written for owner-occupied homes of one to four units, which covers the detached houses, the fee-simple townhouses and the small three- and four-unit buildings. It starts with an assessment by a BPI-certified contractor participating in PSE&G’s program, and the contractor sets that fee. PSE&G does not publish per-measure amounts, so “up to $7,500” is as precise as anyone can plainly be.

Separate and free: PSE&G’s Whole Home Energy Assessment, a no-cost walk-through for any PSE&G residential gas or electric customer in a home of fewer than five units, with small items installed on the spot.

Two no-cost paths exist for households that qualify on income. PSE&G Home Weatherization installs insulation, air sealing and duct sealing at no cost for households between 250% and 400% of the federal poverty level, or in a low- or moderate-income census tract, or in NJ SHARES. New Jersey Comfort Partners does the same at or below 250% of the federal poverty guidelines, $82,500 a year for a family of four in 2026. Comfort Partners refers oil, propane and kerosene homes to the state weatherization office instead, which with oil at 0.8% touches very few households here.

New Jersey’s IRA Home Energy Rebates have not launched. The state’s own page still describes them as in development and not open for applications. The federal Section 25C tax credit ended for anything placed in service after 31 December 2025, so there is no federal insulation credit on a 2026 job, and a contractor still quoting one is out of date. The full picture is in our New York and New Jersey rebate guide.

Code and climate in Burlington Township

45.8% of the township was built before New Jersey’s first statewide energy subcode of 1 January 1978, which is the honest measure of how many houses here went up with no insulation requirement at all. Burlington County sits in climate zone 4A, the warmer of New Jersey’s two zones.

New Jersey adopted the 2024 IECC on 17 August 2026. For new construction it sets R-49 ceilings — the 2021 edition it replaced called for R-60 — with walls at R-30 in the cavity or R-20 plus R-5 continuous, windows at U-0.30 in the 4A counties, and air leakage of 3.0 air changes per hour at 50 pascals. A complete permit application filed under the old 2021 code is still accepted until about 16 February 2027. R-49 is what the state considers right for this climate and what we design to.

A standing house falls under New Jersey’s Rehabilitation Subcode: insulating an attic does not oblige you to bring the rest of the house to current code and does not require a blower-door test. Blown-in or batt insulation against the interior finish is ordinary maintenance with no permit; spray foam and other foam plastic insulation need a permit, which we pull as part of the job.

Common questions about insulation in Burlington Township

Do you install insulation in Burlington Township, NJ?

Yes. Most of our work here is the detached and attached housing that makes up 75.6% of the stock: 1990s colonials and townhouse rows with ducts in vented attics, 1960s and 70s splits with settled loose-fill, 1940s and 50s capes with open knee walls, and the 721 pre-1940 houses that need their wiring checked first. We do not take on the garden apartments and mid-rise buildings, where the envelope belongs to an owner or a board.

How much does insulation cost in Burlington Township?

Most projects run $3,500 to $12,500. In a 1990s colonial the drivers are ceiling area, the footage of duct sitting in the attic, the number of cathedral or tray slopes to baffle, and whether there is a room over the garage. In a townhouse it is the party wall and the garage ceiling. In a cape it is the knee wall and eave footage. You get a written scope and a fixed price after a free walk-through, not a number over the phone.

Are there insulation rebates in Burlington Township?

Yes. PSE&G supplies both electric and gas here, so one program applies. PSE&G Whole Home Energy Solutions pays up to $7,500 in rebates toward air sealing and insulation and offers 0% on-bill repayment of up to $25,000, starting with an assessment by a BPI-certified contractor in the program. The separate Whole Home Energy Assessment walk-through is free. Income-qualified households can get the work at no cost through PSE&G Home Weatherization or New Jersey Comfort Partners. The federal 25C credit ended after 31 December 2025.

Our 1990s house has the furnace and ducts in the attic. Is that fixable?

It is, and it is usually the highest-return work in this township. Ducts in a vented attic sit outside the thermal envelope, so leaking supply air heats the attic and leaking return air pulls attic air into the house. We seal the duct joints and the plenum, insulate the trunk, close the platform the air handler sits on, and air-seal the attic plane before bringing insulation to depth. Where the geometry allows, the better answer is bringing the roofline itself into the envelope.

Free energy audit in Burlington Township

We walk the attic first, including the duct run and air handler platform if they are up there, then the knee-wall spaces behind any second-floor bedrooms, the slopes and eave vents, the ceiling over the garage, the band joist and the party wall if the house is attached. You get a written scope and a price. No charge, no obligation, and if the attic is already at depth and the real problem is the ductwork, we say so.

Call 914-825-6824 or use the contact form. Open 8am–8pm, seven days. We work out of New Rochelle, NY with a 100-plus in-house crew, we do not subcontract, and we hold manufacturer installer certifications from the spray foam manufacturers we use.

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